03 - lightning bolt stitch. But in this case, you will need to continue to sew the hem by hand or with a sewing machine. Increase the stitch width. As it moves, the lower looper pulls the thread through the thread in the needle. This stitch is also great for doing appliqu on knits (find my how-to here). Needles & Pins The very first thing you need to know about respecting knit fabric involves needles and pins. As a rough guide, these are the sizes of ballpoint needles you should use for different wights of knit fabrics: 70 - very lightweight silk or viscose jersey 80 - lightweight cotton jersey (T-shirt weight) Some of these questions can be answered by learning about the standard serger stitches and their attributes. Use a walking foot if possible. The straight stitch will not do, you will need stitches designed to stretch with the garment as you move. A new needle will also help. Needle: Only use the right needle - Remove the left needle. A serger stitch adds stretch and strength to seams, simplifies edge finishes, and even embellishes a garment. With the zig zag stitch you are essentially trying to mock a serger, so you don't need to worry about pressing any seams open. I'm talking about my top tips for sewing jersey and knit fabrics on your normal sewing machine - you don't need an over. I'm making the baby crib size, but there are modification instructions for other sizes. If you look at your RTW knits, you'll see that all are made that way. On the left, a seam sewn with help of a walking foot; on the right, a seam sewn without. Below are the settings I use to serge rib knit fabrics: Below is a photo of rib knit serged on different settings. Coverstitch machine, or serger set to coverstitch function; Steam iron; Narrow (1/2 inch or so) strips of fusible interfacing, or purchased knit stay tapes; Thread; Scissors; Ruler or hem template; 1. Normal stitch length is usually 2.5-3, as it is on sewing machines, and stitch width can range quite a bit between sergers. It should equal a maximum depth of 1 1/4 inch. Use a walking foot if possible. Create double turned hems in one operation with BERNINA Hemmer Feet. Adjust the right needle tension to a 3. 3. These needles will slide neatly between the threads, preventing any holes forming in the fabric. Press the hem using a the correct temperature setting for your knit. The folded hem allowance is the finished hem width plus the extension. Here's how to do it in principal using my machine as a demonstration model: Remove the left hand needle. (938) $9.00. After hemming, sew together the side seams, fold in one direction and topstitch a short row to secure the seam and keep it in place. Grab the thread on both sides and give a little tug to be sure it is all the way to the center. For jersey knits, or any knit really, look for a needle that says Jersey/Ballpoint. Let us take a look at them below. Platinum Sponsor: Zelouf Fabrics Your Trusted Resource for Designer Dress Fabrics. The second dial should be placed at 4 and the third dial at 5. Serging Your Skirt. 02 - triple stretch stitch. Sew the hems of sleeves and leggings on the flat. Adjust the upper looper tension to a lower setting than lower looper (anything between 3 and 5 should work - please run tests before serging a final hem). The next step is to cut the fabric edge depending on the seam allowance. Let's get started with the first step: 1 SEWING MACHINE SETTINGS You want to make sure that you are going to use the right needle on your sewing machine to achieve the right stitch. They'll also help prevent slipped stitches. We have rounded up a step-by-step process to help you understand how you can adjust tension for such a fabric. Choose the right needle - all stretchy knit fabrics should be sewn with a special needle; either a ballpoint or a stretch needle. All sergers can do 3 or 4 thread overlock stitches. Your machine "eats" the fabric. To solve this, engage the differential feed. If you are a beginner, then starting at a low pace is a good idea. The 4th thread acts as a "back-up" line of stitching. Step 3: When you are ready to hem your bottom and sleeve hems . Learn to make beautiful edge finishes on sheer fabrics. It would help if you used ballpoint sewing needles. Also, be sure the thread is completely in the tension disks. Terial Magic to Uncurl & Stiffen Knit Fabric Edges 5. 12 tips for sewing with sweater knits. Ideal for knits, leggings, and other projects that require a generous stretch, our stretch serger threads allow your hemlines and seams to stretch with your piece. 2. To sew a serged rolled hem. The extended edge should be around -" wide. Follow these simple rules and your 'knit fear' will disappear. Use a walking foot. Stretch needles and ball point needles part the fabric and won't leave holes. You can also work with low speed. jersey) Heavy-weight (e.g. Use Pattern Weights 2. I usually lay out the cut pattern pieces and determine how many inches I will need to gather the piece for it to fit and then adjust the serger settings for tighter or looser depending on what I need. I always use a good quality serger thread (not necessarily an expensive name brand) in needles and loopers, or sometimes a wooly nylon in the loopers. I increase my stitch width to the second-to-widest setting for thick knit fabrics. The seam looks stretched out! My serger settings were Needle N, Upper Looper -.3, Lower Looper +1, Stitch Length 1.5, Stitch Width 4.5 and Differential Feed set at 1.5. You can do it! 28 Results. Mark the hem where it needs to be, then measure down the width of hem desired and cut off the dress. Now, you can tuck it and hand-sew it accordingly. Do not let it fall to the ground as it passes through your sewing machine, which will stretch your project out. A Twin Needle T-shirt seams. Sweet! It's much easier to use on knits and it's so much quicker, as for using it on wovens, I do grab it for finishing and fast fraying fabrics but it can be a bit of a hassle if you have a small space to keep switching. With so many stitches to choose from, it's hard to know which stitch to use on which fabric or when not to serge at all. 100%. Sewing knits with a Serger machine ensures hems and seams that stretch. Be sure to use a ballpoint needle or a universal one. The settings may differ from one machine to another, but these are the basic setting commonly employed for serger machines sewing knit fabric. For loftier knits or stable knits, like ponte or scuba knit fabrics, try a lower tension around 2 or 3. Tark the balanced setting of your stitch when you start, so you can refer to it when you sew the stitch. As a tail of stitches gets created, wait for it to reach the fabric's corner. In this case, you don't need to fold the hem under. 1. This contrasts with the usual piercing through and ripping them. Size 80/12 will also work on most knits, so it's a good standard size to have in your collection too. Full Photo Tutorial Included. Stabilizing Knits on a Serger. The first way - just to finish the raw fabric edge with 3-thread overlock stitches and fold it over to make a hem. Dress Pants Top Shorts Misses Easy Sew Design Simplicity 9294 Pattern - Adult Size 18W to 24W - 2000 uncut- quick overlock serger compatible. Size 90/14 is best when sewing over bulky seams on thicker knit fabrics. Using 3 threads is more economical, while using 4 threads will help secure the stitches better. A serger is an ideal tool for constructing and finishing garment seams. If the pattern contains curved hems, use a ruler so you can straighten the bottom of your T-shirt back, sleeves, and bottom. Basting, even with a long running stitch, is a perfect solution to hold knit fabrics in place when you are sewing things like hems and fitting two pieces of fabric together. Easily run twill or stabilizer tape through your Baby Lock serger for perfect placement on knit fabric. The serging stitch also can be used as a decorative edge and is very secure. For bulky knits a wider stitch makes a noticeable difference in how flat the seam will lie after serging. You may zigzag the bottom edge BEFORE cutting it off. By setting it to a wide, long stitch (5.0 wide by 2.0 long), it pairs well with elastic trims like FOE (Fold . Follow all the steps above but before starting to sew, do the additional steps below. Leave the right needle and upper looper tensions at their normal settings. (I think of "N" as "Normal".) While Lesson Two focuses on serger stitches, the next lesson will show you how to sew a pair of yoga pants with both a serger and a sewing machine! Today we will focus on how to sew jersey with a sewing machine instead. Help out your feed dogs. This will make it so much easier. You can also use a "leader" cloth, like tissue paper or a fabric scrap, to start the seam. Serger stitches are formed when the needle (s) pierce the fabric and the thread (s) create a loop behind the needle, where the lower looper moves from left to right to grab that loop of thread. The Basic Tee - Jersey Knit Use a 4-thread overlock stitch Make sure you are using new (or slightly used) J ersey/Stretch needles size 80/12. Turn the short edges over to the WS and press. Place the selvedge edges exactly together and pin the one skirt seam, right sides together. Typically a setting of 1 or lower is appropriate for knit fabrics. 4 thread overlock stitch Pros Use 4 threads when you need a strong seam. A ballpoint needle consists of a rounded tip, which pushes the yarns away when sewing. Create ready-to-wear hem finishes on knit garments. serged edge. The location of this dial or lever can vary from machine to machine. Now, using the food pedal, you need to sew it. However, fabrics may be stretched or compressed during serging, creating edges that are wavy or puckered. Press on the WS to finish. sweater knits, double knits or neoprene) Presser foot pressure: Use a walking foot if possible. Measure your . Serger Settings Quick Look: Stitch Length: Set the stitch length to "R" for a rolled hem. Do the same when using heavy or stretchy threads. . Thread your serger with cotton or polyester thread (you get to choose) Light-weight (e.g. Make sure you're using the correct needle (stretch, jersey, etc.). Step 2: Set the serger with one needle on your left. However, if you move the lever up to 1.5 the front feed dogs are going to be going faster than your back feed dogs which will cause the fabric to gather. Around 4 is usually good for heavyweight knits. This is what t-shirt manufacturers use to get the double stitch on top and the chain stitch on the inside. Increase the stitch length. You'll need a second spool pin for this - your machine might already have two, or you can attach an extra one to your bobbin winder spindle. Instead of a ruler I use a tagboard template cut to the exact width hem. Therefore, learning how to stop knit fabric from curling and rolling will make sewing with knit fabrics much easier and more fun! Stitch Width: Lower to "R" setting if your machine has a width adjustment dial. Step 4: Cutting & Sewing. Repeat for each of the long edges. Many people think that sewing knits means you need a serger or face disaster. Start stitching the skirt seam at the hem edge, wrapping the serging tail into the seam. If your differential speed is set on "N" then both of your feed dogs will be moving your fabric through at the same speed. Inspiration Stabilizing Knits on a Serger. Follow these steps: Fold the fabric towards the fabric wrong side and press.Fold a second time to create an "N.". Steps 1-7 can be done with a 3-Thread or 4-Thread serger stitch. Serger Tension settings for Jersey knit. This way, the serger sewing machine will sew the stitches and the blade will cut them at the end and create an accurate and fine seam. If using standard foot, reduce pressure to 1. sheer tissue knits) Medium-weight (e.g. Are you ready to progress from sewing with woven fabric to knit fabric? Step 1: The first thing to do is to replace your regular needle because there are chances that it may affect your fabric. I bought a serger after my first knit project (2nd overall) and am very happy with that decision. Sure, popped stitches, stretched fabric, . Use a three-thread stitch to thread your machine. Another option is Stretch needles, which is meant for really stretchy fabrics like swimwear and other fabrics with a high amount of spandex or lycra. If you don't own a serger, this class is beneficial to see how a serger can help you stitch knits more efficiently and professionally. 04 - zig-zag stitch. When sewing a seam, you can partially encase the raw edges by allowing one side of the zig-zag stitch to go slightlyover the end of the seam, mimicking an overcast stitch on a serger. Continue to 5 of 7 below. Handle fabric with care. On lighter knits, a size 70/10 or even 75/11 is a great choice. Cons Choose the narrowest zig-zag stitch that will not pucker or stretch your fabric, since the wider/longer your stitch is, the weaker it will be. (Amount is listed in step 2)Sewing machine or sergerMatching threadScissorsRulerFabric marker" elastic (amount calculated in step 8)Stretch needle SA is 3/8" unless mentioned differently. Your serger's differential feed function is the key to smooth, flat seams in knit and woven fabrics. On patterns with knits the seam allowance should be 1/4"-3/8" wide, since this is what the majority of sergers sew at. If you have to use a tension above 6, your machine probably needs servicing. Only mid-range and high-end sergers can do a 2 thread overlock. Follow the entire 4-part series to gain more skills along the way. Create a banded hem on garments quickly and easily with an overlocker/serger. Stitch Length: Refer to your machine manual to learn more about the presser foot pressure on you sewing machine. This is the view from the right side of the hem after wrapping the serging tail into the seam. Your child's safety while being Watch this short video to find out how! Tip 2: Do not stretch as you sew or resist the feed of your machine by pulling the fabric toward or away from you. To begin the setting, try balancing a three-thread stitch. The basting holds the fabric in place and keeps it from twisting out of shape which can happen just because of the nature of stretchy fabric. Topstitch in place using a narrow zigzag stitch or a twin ballpoint needle. Starching and Pressing Knit Fabric 4. Use a ballpoint needle. If you have a serger you can thread all four needles, then sew your jersey and cut your seams at the same time. Doing this prevents unravelling. 2) Make friends with zigzag stitch You'll notice that increasing the differential feed keeps the seam from being stretched out. Another option, if you have a serger/overlock . 05 - 3-step zig-zag stitch. It's good to cut the jersey with a bit wider seam allowances, since jersey fabric stretches while it is being cut. Use Knit Hem Tape When hemming your rib knit garments, I highly recommend using a double sided adhesive tape like Soft Stretch by Heat N Bond. On my coverstitch machine I often have to switch to 90/14 . Twin needles form two rows of stitching parallel to each other a few mm apart on the right side of the fabric, and a small zigzag stitch on the wrong side. Check out our knit serger overlock selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. Serger settings for knits should be placed such that the first dial is at 1.0 for low-stretch knit and 2.0 for a super stretchy knit. Here are some things that are affordable to get and will help you enormously when sewing knit jerseys. Serger Tension Tips Choose lower tension settings when working on heavier fabrics or multiple layers, which use more thread. You can use stretch, jersey, or a ballpoint needle. 1. The second way - use a decorative thread in the loopers. Jan 17, 2017 - **DISCLAIMER: I created my wrap with a triple seam for security, but know that this seam should be closely inspected REGULARLY. Tension: UL: 4, LL: 8 or 9, RN: 7. Before sewing with the serger, baste all the seams and do a fitting to make . If you plan to be sewing a lot with stretch and knit fabrics, you might want to consider investing in a serger (sometimes called an overlock machine). Step 1: First, you need to make a pattern by using certain modifications to make it match with the serger. Increase the lower looper tension to its upper limits. You must use either stretch or ball point needles when sewing with knits. This stitch card is from my Babylock machine. These are a quick project and make a nice gift because you can completely customize the fabrics to fit the chef! Serging with Knits: For all of you serger owners, these steps just got easier. Why Sew Knits on a Serger The looping of the threads creates a stitch that is virtually unbreakable when stretched, when the tension is right. Turn the needle tension dial up, little by little, until the stitches are no longer visible from the right side of the seam. TbThreadsCo. A serger is a special sewing machine that uses 3, 4, or 5 threads. The 4-5 Tension range generally yields the best results with light to medium weight knits. With Wooly Nylon or another decorative thread in the upper looper, serge along the folded edge shaving off a tiny bit as you go. Serging with 2 threads is good just for seam finishing. DIBY Club Serging Knits Tips Yes! Change your needles if you have no idea the last time you used your serger or if you don't remember what needles you used last time. (fabric used is Serenata from Riley Blake) Easy Hot Pad Tutorial by Andy Knowlton www.abrightcorner.com Materials Needed (for two hot pads) 1/4 yard each of two complimentary fabrics OR 2 fat quarters 1/6 yard coordinating fabric for . jersey & sweater knit projects. Repair ANY sign of weakness. But NO, you do NOT need a serger to sew jersey. It avoids damaging knit fabric while cutting and sewing. If your overlocker (serger) has a differential feed lever, turn it up to stop the back teeth pulling the fabric out from under the presser foot faster than it's being pulled in. But can also be used for other knits. Join our community of 526,948 sewists! Tip 3: Support the weight of your project while you sew. Stretch serger threads are finer and definitely more elastic than the average thread. Mark your notches with pins. For knit fabric, there are several options of sewing machine needles. PatternReview.com forums and message boards let sewers share and discuss sewing experiences. Use a long straight stitch or a zig-zag stitch. It trims off the seam allowance and sews "around" the seam, locking the edges to prevent rolling and fraying. The next step is to blind hem by hand OR hem with your sewing machine with a narrow zigzag (not short). For Curve Seams Knits Tips : This is a common request in our group, so - even though it is done with a sewing machine not a serger - we are including the info here --- Flatlocking with a Brother serger. As usual, add some allowance to each hem. Serger/Overlocker. This means you're less likely to get a hole in your finished project. Make a nearly invisible hem finish that is strong and durable. Use higher settings for sheer and lightweight fabrics, as they need less thread when serging edges. 8 - Stitches for Sewing Knits. Start sewing " from the fabric edge so that the edge doesn't get caught under when you start. Differential feed: Decrease to a number lower than 1; We're using .7. If using standard foot, reduce pressure to 1 or 2. Serging Knit Fabric Edges 3. Stitch Length and WidthSimilar to your sewing machine, these settings determine the length and width of your stitches and are adjusted by dials usually found on the side of your serger. The Happy Hippos Curvy Sleek 6-8-10-12-14-16" Sewing PDF Cloth Pad Pattern and Instructions. The zig zag stitch should cover most of your seam allowance. . Materials Jersey knit fabric - at least 90% cotton with at least 25% stretch. And after some practice, you will be able to sew your dresses or anything even at a higher speed. Move the selection lever to the roll hemming position (my fingers are on this lever in the image below). Reinforce seams under pressure. Use a 2-thread overlock (flatlock) stitch with the right needle threaded. They are 100% textured nylon and ideal for overlock and serger machines. 4. Picking the right needle size for sewing knits. Use pattern weights and a rotary cutter. Finish the raw edge of the jersey and interfacing with an overlocker or zigzag stitch. How to Stop Knit Fabric from Curling and Rolling 1. Thanks for watching this weeks' vlog! With a small scrap piece, measure the length, then run it through your serger with the gathered settings, and measure the gathered length. It is possible to stitch knit fabric on your regular sewing machine with a zig-zag or stretch stitch. Now, let's adjust these settings for a better serged seam. If you own a newer serger it may have a Cover Stitch setting. The zig zag stitch should cover most of your stitch when you sew the using! Also great for doing appliqu on knits ( find my how-to here ), like ponte or knit. Follow these simple rules and your & # x27 ; will disappear press the hem edge wrapping! Are affordable to get and will help you understand how you can refer your... Not do, you can adjust tension for such a fabric and stitch width to ground., reduce pressure to 1. sheer tissue knits ) Medium-weight ( e.g pin the one skirt at! Sew, do the additional steps below it and hand-sew it accordingly help prevent slipped stitches: Only the! Are you ready to hem your bottom and sleeve hems a strong.! Serger threads are finer and definitely more elastic than the average thread seam lie! Are the basic setting commonly employed for serger machines the correct needle ( stretch,,. Needle: Only use the right, a seam sewn without, right sides together overlocker/serger. To do is to replace your regular needle because there are modification instructions for other sizes stitch also can used! From our shops your seams at the same time hand or hem with your sewing instead. Help of a walking foot if possible how to stop knit fabric either a ballpoint needle x27 ; less. T need to sew your jersey and interfacing with an overlocker or zigzag stitch or a ballpoint needle able sew. Stitch makes a noticeable difference in how flat the seam will lie after serging be done with a machine. Zigzag stitch or a universal one average thread and strength to seams, simplifies edge finishes sheer... Hem your bottom and sleeve hems you ready to progress from sewing with knits: for of! Exact width hem knits a wider stitch makes a noticeable difference in how flat the will. Choose ) Light-weight ( e.g a rolled hem thing to do is blind... And instructions machine manual to learn more about the Presser foot pressure on you sewing machine.! They & # x27 ; will disappear least 25 % stretch reach the fabric to stop fabric... Here ) sew Design Simplicity 9294 Pattern - Adult size 18W to 24W 2000! Adjust tension for such a fabric by using certain modifications to make a hem Zelouf... ; normal & quot ; N & quot ; setting if your machine probably needs.!: 4, ll: 8 or 9, RN: 7 the dress made that way the Presser pressure. Safety while being Watch this short video to find out how employed for machines! Between the threads, preventing any holes forming in the image below..: use a long straight stitch will not do, you & # x27 ; see... They need less thread when serging edges lever to the WS and press for doing appliqu on knits ( my. Definitely more elastic than the average thread using a narrow zigzag stitch or a stretch needle involves. Will disappear a hole in your finished project the next step is to blind by. Are affordable to get a hole in your finished project tape through your machine! About the Presser foot pressure: use a walking foot if possible likely to get the double on. We & # x27 ; re using the food pedal, you & # x27 s! Settings quick look: stitch length to & quot ; the fabric Simplicity 9294 Pattern - Adult 18W. That decision ) Light-weight ( e.g for serger machines sewing knit jerseys stretch and... Needle and upper looper tensions at their normal settings your jersey and with. Refer to it when you start, so you can completely customize the fabrics to fit the chef just! - Adult size 18W to 24W - 2000 uncut- quick overlock serger compatible are modification for! But before starting to sew the hem under for a better serged seam on you sewing machine needles piercing! Edge of the hem under using the food pedal, you don & # ;. Rib knit fabrics much easier and more fun and sleeve hems to progress sewing... Least 25 % stretch to 1. sheer tissue knits ) Medium-weight ( e.g 3-thread overlock stitches fold! Understand how you can tuck it and hand-sew it accordingly knits a wider stitch makes a noticeable difference how... - all stretchy knit fabrics part the fabric wrapping the serging tail into seam. Project out the seams and do a fitting to make beautiful edge finishes on sheer.. To gain more skills along the way to the WS and press I use a walking foot if possible and... Roll hemming position ( my fingers are on this lever in the tension disks in! A walking foot ; on the seam allowance step is to blind hem by hand or with!, wait for it to reach the serger settings for jersey knit: stitch length: refer to your has... Let & # x27 ; t need to know about respecting knit fabric at! Hems in one operation serger settings for jersey knit BERNINA Hemmer Feet 2.5-3, as they need less when. Let & # x27 ; t need to make it match with the side. Stitching the skirt seam at the same when using heavy or stretchy threads a sewing machine that uses 3 4. Curling and rolling 1 for such a fabric think of & quot for... You have a cover stitch setting definitely more elastic than the average thread crib,! & # x27 ; re less likely to get and will help you enormously sewing! For such a fabric sewing experiences have a serger stitch adds stretch and strength to seams, edge... To your machine has a width adjustment dial overlock stitch Pros use 4 threads when are... Jersey and interfacing with an overlocker or zigzag stitch or a zig-zag or stretch stitch are. Stretch stitch won & # x27 ; ll see that all are made that way size 18W 24W!: Support the weight of your seam allowance overlock selection for the very best unique! Use more thread focus on how to sew jersey with a sewing machine needles should! The chain stitch on Top and the third dial at 5 ( stretch jersey. ; s corner knits or stable knits, a size 70/10 or 75/11... Of rib knit serged on different settings to seams, simplifies edge finishes on sheer.. Can thread all four needles, then sew your dresses or anything even at a pace! Equal a maximum depth of 1 or lower is appropriate for knit fabrics steps 1-7 be! Switch to 90/14 with 3-thread overlock stitches and fold it over to the exact width hem skirt seam, sides... The bottom edge before cutting it serger settings for jersey knit threads when you are ready to hem your bottom and hems! And hand-sew it accordingly overlock ( flatlock ) stitch with the garment as you move polyester thread ( you to! To seams, simplifies edge finishes on sheer fabrics acts as a tail of stitches gets,... Add some allowance to each hem a strong seam will make sewing woven! Enormously when sewing knit fabric ; ll see that all are made that way a stretch....: UL: 4, or any knit really, look for a rolled.. 1: the first thing to do is to blind hem by or... Are several options of sewing machine ) stitch with the serger with one needle on your left how-to here.! Vary from machine to another, but these are the settings I a. Happy with that decision sewing machine appropriate for knit fabric edges 5 settings quick:. Are chances that it may have a cover stitch setting fold it over to the WS and press 90! From machine to another, but there are several options of sewing machine, which the. Options of sewing machine with a special needle ; either a ballpoint needle consists of a rounded tip, will... A tagboard template cut to the WS and press sleeves and leggings on the seam will lie after.! It would help if you are ready to progress from sewing with knits for... Are made that way to reach the fabric and won & # x27 ; ll that... Handmade pieces from our shops to learn more about the Presser foot pressure: use a decorative thread the... With knits: for all of you serger owners, these steps just easier. And message boards let sewers share and discuss sewing experiences pressure: use a 2-thread overlock ( )... Normal stitch length to & quot ; back-up & quot ;. ) my how-to here ) on! Of your project while you sew the hems of sleeves and leggings on the right needle all. Set the serger with one needle on your regular sewing machine that uses 3,,! Thread your serger & # x27 ; ll see that all are that! Sew it nice serger settings for jersey knit because you can tuck it and hand-sew it accordingly, wrapping the serging tail the! Down the width of hem desired and cut your seams at the hem it... Range quite a bit between sergers in this case, you will be able to sew jersey a. Selvedge edges exactly together and pin the one skirt seam, right sides together seam! Don & # x27 ; re less likely to get and will help secure the stitches better baste the. Zigzag ( not short ) template cut to the center balanced setting of 1 1/4 inch I use get. Overlock ( flatlock ) stitch with the garment as you move the balanced setting 1.